Japanese Persimmon Tree

The Japanese Persimmon or Kaki Persimmon, tastes richly sweet with an almost honey-like flavor with slight cinnamon undertones, when ripened. This 30-feet-tall deciduous tree is native to China, Japan, and Korea. Its dark green, glossy leaves provide a stunning autumn display of yellow, orange, and red hues. Kaki Persimmons ripen in late autumn, with colors ranging from yellow-orange to deep red when ripe. Kaki Persimmons and leaves can be consumed fresh, dried, cooked, or made into vinegar. The Kaki Persimmon has been cultivated in China for over 2000 years and was introduced to Japan around the 7th century. In Japan, "Hoshigaki", a traditional dried persimmon, is made by hanging and massaging the fruits until they become tender and sweet. Kaki persimmons are also rich in vitamins A and C, providing a healthy and delicious snack. 

Also Known As:  Kaki Tree, Chinese Persimmon, Japanese Persimmon, Oriental Persimmon, Fuyu Persimmon, Sharon Fruit, Diospyros Kaki, Korean Persimmon, Amagaki, Hachiya Persimmon.

Plant Name:	Tree, Kaki Persimmon
Latin Name:	Diospyros kaki
Days to Germinate:	14-28
Years to Fruit:	3 - 6 Years
Plant Height:	30 - 40 Feet
Spread:	30 - 40 Feet
Growth Habit:	Upright
USDA Zones:	4-10
Lifespan:	Perennial
Brand:	TomorrowSeeds
Sunlight:	Full Sun, Partial Shade
Pollination:	Heirloom, Open-Pollinated
GMO:	No
Fungicide-Treated Seeds*:	No
Seeds Packed For**:	2025

*Fungicide-treated seeds protect the seedlings from diseases until they are up and growing. Do not eat treated seeds.
**Seeds are freshly packed for the growing season of the year listed. Seeds are still viable beyond pack date. Store in a cool and dry location such as the refrigerator or basement to best preserve germination rates.

Planting Instructions:

Soil Preparation:

Choose a clear, sunny location that is not in the shade of other trees and receives at least 6 hours of sunlight each day. Trees establish roots better in sandy, well-drained soils rather than heavy, poorly drained soil. Remove weeds, large rocks, and litter from the planting area. Leave small weeds and dead grass, they will enrich the soil when turned under. Spade or till the soil 6-8 inches deep. Loosening the soil will help the plant establish strong roots. If the soil is heavy or clay-like, mix in some sand or compost to improve drainage. Optionally, either form rows of soil beds or hills 4-6 inches high and at least 30 feet apart. This formation of ridges will help with drainage, ensure good airflow, and make harvesting or maintenance easier.

Planting:

Starting Indoors: Seeds require cold, moist stratification to break dormancy. To stratify, roll seeds in a damp paper towel and place in a resealable bag. Place the bag in the refrigerator to keep seeds at 35F-40F for 60-90 days, mimicking winter conditions. After the stratification period, seeds should be ready to germinate. To germinate seeds, place the bags in a warm 70F-90F area. After 10 days, plant the seeds in small pots with moist potting soil and in a warm, sunny location that is at least 65F, about 1 month before the last expected frost in spring. Keep the soil moist, allowing the top inch of soil to dry in between waterings.

Once the seedlings have developed a few sets of leaves and are at least 6 inches in height, harden off seedlings then transplant outdoors in the spring, in a sunny location when temperatures are consistently above 60F. To transplant seedlings, prepare a transplant hole outdoors in a sunny, permanent location. Remove the plants carefully from the pots or flats and set them in the transplant holes, burying some of the stem in the ground. Pack the soil loosely around the plant and leave a slightly sunken area around each plant to hold water. Water the plants after transplanting.

Directly Sowing: If directly sowing outdoors, plant seeds in late summer to naturally cold-stratify seeds. To plant, make holes 1 inch deep and spaced 20-35 feet apart down the rows of raised beds. Plant 1 seed per hole, then cover thinly with soil. Seedbeds can be covered with plastic film to promote germination. Water after planting.

Planting Depth:	1 inch
Within-Row Spacing:	20-30 feet
Between-Row Spacing:	30 feet

Care During the Season:

Oriental Persimmon trees are hardy, low-maintenance plants that can produce fruit for many years with care. Regular deep watering can help penetrate deep persimmon tree roots. Young trees need consistent watering, especially in dry periods, but mature trees are more drought-tolerant. Fertilize the young trees with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer once a year to encourage healthy growth, but avoid over-fertilizing, which can lead to excessive leaf growth instead of fruit. Since persimmon trees are relatively pest- and disease-resistant, they require little intervention. Mulching around the base of the tree helps retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. As summer progresses, fruit begins to develop and mature, requiring continued but moderate watering to ensure proper size and sweetness. By late summer to fall, reducing water slightly can help enhance fruit flavor.

Harvesting:

Pick Oriental Persimmons when vibrant in color, usually anywhere from yellow-orange to orange-red, and firm as a tomato, usually after flowering in late fall. Majority of oriental persimmons will drop in flushes shortly shortly after flowering in August-October. To harvest, use pruning shears or hand clippers to cut the fruit from the tree, leaving a small portion of the stem attached to prevent bruising. Handle the fruit carefully to avoid damage, as persimmons are delicate.