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|Shallot, Nero F1
|Allium cepa aggeratum
|Days to Germinate:
|Days to Harvest:
|90 (Plant Spring/Summer), 240 (Plant Fall/Winter)
|Root, Noon-Long Day
|Full Sun, Partial Shade
|Seeds Packed For**:
*Fungicide-treated seeds protect the seedlings from diseases until they are up and growing. Do not eat treated seeds.
**Seeds are freshly packed for the growing season of the year listed. Seeds are still viable beyond pack date. Store in a cool and dry location such as the refrigerator or basement to best preserve germination rates.
Soil Preparation and Fertilizing:
Choose an area with well-draining soil and receives full sunlight each day. When it is dry enough to not stick to garden tools, work the soil. Before seeding or transplanting, remove all rocks and trash from the soil, then dig or plow the soil 8-10 inches deep and rake up several times to break up large clods. At this point, you may optionally spread 2-3 pounds of a complete fertilizer per 100-square-feet of garden area. Measure and spread the fertilizer, then mix it with the top 3-4 inches of soil. Rake until smooth. Tip: If you live in an area with heavy clay or hard soil, add a 1 inch layer of compost to improve soil texture.
Shallots are a cool-season crop and can stand temperatures well below freezing. They may be planted from seeds, from small bulbs called sets, or from transplants. Seeding costs the least but takes longer before shallots are ready.
When using sets or transplants, plant October-February (for biggest bulbs in May/July harvest). Plant shallot sets with the point end up 3/4 inch deep and 3 inches apart. Try not to transplant shallots more than 1 inch deep. As the cold chill of winter arrives, the shallot plants go dormant. Then, as the temperatures and soil warm again in early spring, the shallots come back to life.
|1- 2 feet
Watering: Watering once a week is usually enough in the Spring. You may need to water more often during dry, windy weather. Slow, deep watering helps the root system grow strong.
Weeding and Pruning: Weeds are easy to pull or cut when they are 3-4 inches tall. Try not to let weeds or grasses grow large because they will compete with shallots for nutrients. If hoeing to remove weeds, be careful not to cut too deeply as cutting the feeder rooters may slow the plant's growth. It is better to pull by hand when possible.
Fertilizing: When the shallot plants develop several shoots, you may optionally apply fertilizer again to help grow larger plants and bigger bulbs. Use about 1/2 cup of fertilizer for each 10 feet of shallot row. Scatter the fertilizer evenly between the rows around the plants. Then water the shallots after adding the fertilizer.
Insecticides: Shallots have few insect problems. However, thrips, which are very tiny insects, may be found between the center leaves. Many Insecticides are available in garden centers for use if needed. Bt-based insecticides and sulfur are organic options that can be used. Sevin is a synthetic insecticide option. Before using a pesticide, please read the label and always follow cautions, warnings and directions.
Diseases: Brown leaf tips or brown spots on the middle and lower parts of leaves may be caused by plant diseases. Sulfur has fungicidal properties than can help control many diseases. Neem oil and other fungicides are available for use. Please always follow cautions, warnings, and directions.
Shallots set/transplanted in January/February should produce bulbs in May/July. If used as shallot scallions, they may be picked from the time they are pencil size until they begin to form bulbs. For dry-bulb shallots, let the plants grow larger. Shallots are ready when the main stem begins to get weak and fall over. Pull the plants out of the soil. Leave them lying in the garden for about 1-2 days to dry. Then remove the tops and roots and let them keep drying in baskets or boxes. Shallots can be stored in a refrigerator crisper or in a dry, airy place such as a in a wire net in the garage or carport.